A new study suggests that if Kenya implements a ban on mitumba (second-hand clothing) imports, it may fail to boost its local textile industry as intended, and could instead let cheap clothing importers reap the benefits.

The report, commissioned by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAS) and co-authored with Professor Patrick Diamond of Queen Mary University of London, focuses on the current state and outlook of the second-hand clothing industry in East Africa. The report warns that East African countries should avoid protectionist measures against second-hand clothing, because the real threat comes from China and other Asian producers—they are increasingly dominating the African market, with clothing export volumes far exceeding those of the United States. Whether legal or undeclared, these imports have already put enormous pressure on East Africa's textile manufacturing sector.

The report emphasizes that protectionism tends to suppress productivity growth and industry innovation. On the contrary, the local textile industry and the second-hand clothing industry can fully develop in tandem and achieve mutual benefit. The data proves it: even during the period from 2002 to 2014, when mitumba flowed in large quantities, Kenya's clothing exports to the United States still grew from $8.5 million (about 1.2 billion shillings) to $332 million (about 46.8 billion shillings).

But it cannot be ignored that, with the impact of similar Asian products, the competitiveness of East Africa's textile industry in the global market is declining. Even so, the mitumba trade contributes significantly to Kenya's economy. Teresiah Wairimu, chairperson of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, revealed that in 2021 the industry contributed $112.46 million (about 15.9 billion shillings) in government tax revenue. According to the 2023 Economic Survey, textile import taxes rose from 5.4 billion shillings the previous year to 6.4 billion shillings in 2022.

During the same period, Kenya imported 177,664 tons of second-hand clothing. Although this was lower than the 183,830 tons in 2021, the import value climbed from 19 billion shillings to 20 billion shillings. It is worth noting that Kenya holds the largest share of the East African mitumba market.

However, even without a mitumba ban, Kenya remains Africa's fourth-largest clothing exporter, and the sector contributes 7% of export earnings. Report data shows that between 2011 and 2021, jobs in the second-hand clothing industry increased from 576,870 to 1,381,277. Some estimates suggest actual employment may be as high as 2 million, with about 50,000 people directly employed across the entire value chain, affecting 10% of the country's population.

The timing of this report's release is significant—trade ministers are gathering in Kenya for the 54th African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) All-Africa Trade Ministers Meeting, where textile rules of origin will be an important topic. Industry observers believe that for East Africa's textile industry, rather than fixating on banning second-hand clothing imports, it would be better to focus on how to respond to low-price competition from Asia. That may be the real focus of industrial policy discussions.

Source: Cheap Asian imports, not mitumba, pose a threat to Kenya's textile industry - study - 华人头条 · Originally published on 2026-08-26