In 2020, China overtook Europe to become the world's largest exporter of second-hand clothing, with export volumes nearly 10 times those of the United States, and it is already Africa's largest source of second-hand clothing. These old clothes, exported by the tonne, often cost only a few mao per item, and most eventually sell in African markets for a few yuan to a few dozen yuan, ending up in ordinary people's wardrobes.

Key Points

  • In 2020, China surpassed Europe to become the world's largest exporter of second-hand clothing, with export volumes about 10 times those of the United States.
  • China generates about 26 million to 28 million tonnes of old clothes each year, with each person discarding 3 to 5 items annually.
  • About 67% of the population in East Africa has bought at least some second-hand clothing, and in Rwanda 22,000 people worked directly in the second-hand clothing market in 2016.

On city streets and in residential compounds, collection bins set up by companies, as well as old clothes casually thrown into rubbish bins, can all become the starting point of this cross-border supply chain. As China's poverty alleviation efforts advance, the number of poor and low-income people has declined, and demand for donated clothing in many remote mountainous areas has fallen or even exceeded supply, while the amount of waste textiles has risen year by year. Mountainous areas can no longer absorb them, so exporting second-hand clothing has become an emerging way out.

Among old clothes exported to Africa, light spring and summer items are the most popular. In some tropical countries, people wear short sleeves and shorts all year round, and a tonne of goods can often contain thousands of summer garments. Branded goods and clothes in good condition make up only a tiny share and may sell for high prices of 100 yuan, while the vast majority sell for a few yuan to a few dozen yuan. Large numbers of work uniforms, culture shirts and school uniforms printed with Chinese characters thus appear on African streets. In second-hand clothing markets such as Gikomba in Kigali, Rwanda's capital (originally written as Nairobi), reporters saw that trading resembles street stalls. Local consumers, limited by income, find it hard to be selective, and the huge market demand has also created many jobs. The core reason second-hand clothing thrives in Africa is that the local economy is relatively underdeveloped and the textile industry is not advanced, so limited incomes leave people with little choice but to accept this option.

The other side of old clothes is environmental pressure. Data shows that in 2016 China generated 26 million to 28 million tonnes of old clothes each year; as of 2016, the apparel and footwear industry accounted for more than 8% of global climate impact. The environmental organisation greenofchange points out that producing 1 kilogram of fabric consumes an average of 200 litres of water, and wastewater from washing, bleaching and dyeing, if discharged without meeting standards, becomes a source of water pollution; colouring, drying and baking also release VOCs, one of the important causes of smog. Once clothing becomes waste, it is extremely hard to degrade: nylon takes 30 to 40 years, common polyester fibres take decades to over a century, and artificial leather may take 500 years. McKinsey research shows that the number of garments has doubled every year since 2000.

At the other end of second-hand clothing, vintage has become another destination. Vintage usually refers to clothing, jewellery and bags that have age, good quality and characteristics of their production era. In recent years it has become popular among young consumers and in fashion circles, and many celebrities have appeared in gowns from decades ago. Enthusiasts believe that buying old clothes helps keep garments out of landfills, and this consumer mindset, which focuses more on pleasing oneself than on showing off, gives classic styles new value.

For China's old clothing trade industry, this chain, built on collection bins, sorting plants and exporters, connects at one end to the growing pressure at home to dispose of waste textiles, and at the other to rigid demand in African markets. How to improve sorting quality while expanding exports, extend domestic recycling and reuse links, and respond to concerns about environmental protection and sustainability will determine how far this business can go.

Source: The old clothes you throw away—why have they become a hit on African streets?_The Paper_Pengpai News · Originally published on 2023-02-06