New EU environmental regulations are reshaping the global textile industry. PET bottle-to-yarn technology is being restricted for use in apparel, and clothing sold on the market is required to incorporate recycled materials, creating a global polyester fiber shortage of up to 71.1 million tons. Textile-to-Textile recycling—turning old clothes into new ones—is seen as the primary solution. As a global hub for functional fabric production, Taiwan's Industrial Technology Research Institute (ITRI), together with local recyclers and major chemical fiber manufacturers, is tackling three key challenges: disassembly of mixed materials, decolorization, and recycling of functional waterproof membranes.

Key Points

  • The EU requires recycled materials in apparel sold on the market, creating a global polyester fiber shortage of 71.1 million tons.
  • ITRI's self-developed decolorization accelerator achieves a 99% decolorization rate and reduces process carbon emissions by 40%.
  • The global waterproof functional jacket market is worth US$35.4 billion (approx. NT$1.13 trillion), with Taiwan-made fabrics holding a 60% to 70% global brand market share.

The First Hurdle in Clothing Circularity: Disassembly and Separation of Mixed Materials

For old clothes to be reborn as new ones, the first step is disassembly. Liu Yao-ta, General Manager of Peide, points out that old clothes must be physically fiberized by crushing and removing buttons, zippers, and other dissimilar materials. Liao Jui-fen, Vice President of Far Eastern New Century, states that yarns are spun very fine, and even a tiny amount of impurities mixed in during the process will cause yarn breakage, making continued weaving impossible. Another reason the industry has lacked recycling incentives is cost: directly purchasing new petrochemical polyester raw materials for spinning is cheaper than separating and decolorizing old clothes.

Decolorization: The "Final Boss"—From Only Being Able to Dye Black to Reducing Carbon by 40%

Old clothes come in a myriad of colors. Without decolorization, direct melting can only produce mixed black polyester pellets; dye small molecules also decompose during high-temperature melting, making re-spinning impossible. Chang Chang-jung, Section Chief at ITRI's Material and Chemical Research Laboratories, explains that traditional chemical decolorization methods consume large amounts of water and energy, making recycled clothing a high-carbon product instead. ITRI has developed a decolorization accelerator and special formula that uses reverse engineering to swell and widen old clothing fibers, shred them, and detach dye small molecules, achieving a 99% decolorization rate. Water and electricity savings reduce overall process carbon emissions by 40%, also helping Taiwan's apparel industry avoid the risk of rising costs from future carbon tariffs.

Depolymerization Technology: Freeing Waterproof Functional Jackets from Incineration

Taiwan holds a 60% to 70% global brand market share in outdoor functional fabrics, snow jackets, and waterproof clothing. Traditional waterproof functional jackets have a middle layer tightly bonded to a breathable waterproof polymer membrane, requiring at least 6 steps for physical separation, and previously could only be incinerated. With the global waterproof functional jacket market valued at US$35.4 billion (approx. NT$1.13 trillion), annual discards reach as high as 250 million units. Through depolymerization technology, Taiwanese laboratories disassemble waterproof old clothes like Lego blocks, converting them into thick polymer resin, which is then re-laid into membranes attached to fabric, allowing waterproof jackets that could only be incinerated to be reborn as new waterproof membranes. This not only meets EU environmental thresholds but also safeguards the multi-billion-dollar functional fabric export lifeline.

Realistic Constraints on Capacity and Materials

At the current stage, recycling technology is still limited by capacity, with recycled materials accounting for about 20%, while the remaining 80% still requires new materials; buttons, zippers, and other composite materials mostly still face incineration after removal. Some forward-thinking brands have begun seeking the few Taiwanese manufacturers capable of producing 100% polyester accessories, aiming to create the ultimate recyclable garment made entirely of a single material from head to toe. Liao Jui-fen emphasizes that Taiwan has limited population and resources: "What we excel at is doing technology well. In the future, we can export this low-carbon recycling technology to other countries."

Source: Taiwan Launches "Clothing Circularity" Tech War: ITRI's Exclusive Reverse Decolorization and Depolymerization Technology Safeguards Billion-Dollar Market | Sustainable ESG | SETN.COM · Originally published on 2026-09-29