In Kenya, the second-hand clothing trade, commonly known as "mitumba," supports about 2 million people, making it one of Africa's largest second-hand clothing markets. However, according to a recent letter published in the journal Science, more than 4.5 billion used garments are shipped to Africa each year, and a large share of them end up in landfills or being burned because local sorting systems are overwhelmed, raising concerns about public health hazards.

Researchers point out that discarded textiles can become a "breeding ground" for harmful bacteria such as E. coli and Klebsiella, which are linked to diarrhea, urinary tract infections, pneumonia, and even sepsis. In addition, microplastics produced by the breakdown of synthetic fibers can spread pathogens and toxic chemicals through the environment and may even exacerbate the spread of antibiotic resistance.

In Kenya's case, a 2023 report estimated that Nairobi's largest landfill receives about 86 tons of textile waste per day. Faced with this challenge, experts are calling on exporting countries to strictly enforce international environmental law, strengthen quality control before export, and increase investment in waste management and recycling infrastructure in importing countries. At the same time, a clearer international definition of "second-hand goods" is urgently needed to close legal loopholes in waste trafficking.

Kenya has already passed the Sustainable Waste Management Act to promote waste reduction and extended producer responsibility (EPR), but researchers stress that importing countries cannot bear the full burden alone. Akshay Shah, outgoing board chair of the Kenya Extended Producer Responsibility Organization, suggests that the textile import industry should establish its own EPR mechanism, with retailers who ultimately benefit paying related fees to give back to waste pickers and recyclers.

The authors of the Science letter warn that if exporting countries do not strengthen regulation, the environmental and public health costs of global discarded clothing will continue to be borne disproportionately by African countries. This issue highlights the urgency of a sustainable transformation of the used clothing trade and reminds all parties of the need for a mechanism to share responsibility across borders.

Source: Kenya’s clothing waste raises concerns about potential public health risks · Originally published on 2026-08-26