Kenya's vast second-hand clothing market, "mitumba," provides clothing for millions and supports the livelihoods of about 2 million people. However, experts warn that some of the clothing entering the country is actually waste, posing public health risks.

In a letter published in the journal Science, researchers pointed out that the textile waste imported by this East African country may exceed its sorting capacity, leading to discarded clothing being dumped or burned. These waste piles may harbor harmful bacteria, including E. coli and Klebsiella, which can cause diarrhea, urinary tract infections, pneumonia, bloodstream infections, and in severe cases even sepsis.

According to statistics, Africa receives more than 4.5 billion pieces of second-hand clothing each year. A 2023 report showed that Nairobi's largest landfill receives 86 tons of textile waste daily. Packages labeled "old clothes" do not always contain reusable items. When damaged or low-quality clothing cannot be sold, importing countries are forced to deal with the garbage generated by overproduction in the global fashion industry.

Researchers also noted that discarded textiles may carry pathogenic microorganisms and antibiotic resistance genes, posing an additional threat to people living or working near dumpsites. As synthetic fibers degrade, microplastics enter waterways and the air. These particles may carry toxic chemicals and help pathogens spread in the environment, worsening pollution in resource-poor communities.

Fast fashion is one of the factors intensifying the problem, characterized by cheap, disposable clothing that causes severe environmental pollution and resource consumption.

Despite these problems, mitumba remains an important pillar of Kenya's economy, while clothing waste from wealthy countries shifts environmental and health costs onto these communities.

The authors of the letter called for stronger enforcement of international environmental law, stricter inspections of clothing quality before export, and investment in waste management and recycling systems in importing countries. They also called for a stricter global definition of "second-hand goods" to reduce loopholes that allow waste to be labeled as reusable clothing and shipped overseas.

Kenya's Sustainable Waste Management Act aims to reduce waste, promote recycling, and extend producer responsibility. However, researchers say importing countries should not be expected to deal with this problem alone.

Akshay Shah, outgoing board chairman of the Kenya Extended Producer Responsibility Organization, proposed that textile importers should establish their own extended producer responsibility (EPR) mechanisms. Shah said: "Retailers who ultimately benefit from textiles need to pay EPR fees." These funds could be used to support waste pickers and recyclers who handle discarded materials.

Ebenezer Amadi, a senior project manager at Bopinc, emphasized in a conversation with Mongabay: "It is crucial to consider potential risks such as bacterial contamination, but they can be addressed through border inspections and appropriate controls."

The significance of this issue for the industry is that the sustainable development of the second-hand clothing trade urgently requires joint action by the international community, clear division of responsibilities, and stronger regulation to reduce negative impacts on the environment and health.

Source: Kenya's mitumba market clothes millions, but dumped textiles may harbor E. coli · Originally published on 2026-09-01